If you love cooking in Colorado Springs and want your yard ready for spring grilling, then yes, you should winterize your sprinklers every year before hard freeze. It protects the system from burst pipes, saves money on repairs, and keeps your lawn and herb beds ready for the next growing season. Many people wait too long or skip a few steps, but proper sprinkler system installation Colorado Springs can be as routine as cleaning the grill or stocking up on chicken stock before soup season.
Why food lovers should care about sprinkler winterization
I know, sprinklers do not sound like a food topic at first. But if you grow herbs, tomatoes, peppers, or even just like hosting backyard dinners, your irrigation system shapes a lot of your warm weather plans.
You probably care about:
– Soft, green grass where guests can sit or kids can run
– Healthy herbs near the kitchen door
– Raised beds that get consistent water, not floods
– A backyard that looks good when you light up the grill
All of that depends on a sprinkler system that survives winter.
If your sprinklers crack from ice, your first warm weekend might go to emergency repairs instead of your first outdoor dinner.
When you think about winterization as part of your cooking year, it suddenly feels less like a chore and more like prep work. It is no different from freezing stock or labeling containers in the freezer. You do the work now so future you has an easier time.
How Colorado Springs weather affects your sprinkler system
Colorado Springs has a strange mix: sunny days, sudden cold snaps, and that dry air that makes bread go stale too fast. Sprinklers do not like that combination.
A few basic facts help explain why winterization matters:
| Local factor | What it does to your sprinklers | What it means for your garden / cooking plans |
|---|---|---|
| Freeze-thaw cycles | Water in pipes expands and contracts, which can crack PVC or fittings. | Spring leaks, soggy spots where you wanted a picnic table or smoker. |
| Dry air | Lawn and beds can dry out quickly, so you depend on a working system. | Struggling herbs, stressed fruit trees, and sad raised beds. |
| Late cold snaps | Even after a warm spell, a sudden freeze can hit partially full lines. | You think the system is safe, then discover damage right before planting. |
| High sun exposure | UV ages plastic parts and dries seals over time. | Spray patterns change, coverage becomes uneven, especially around beds. |
I have seen people gamble on a mild winter. Sometimes they get away with it for a year or two. Then one cold weekend wrecks a main line, and they end up hand watering their veggie beds while saving up for repairs.
From a food point of view, that is like skipping fridge maintenance, then throwing out a freezer full of meat after it fails. You saved an hour, then lost a season.
Basic idea of sprinkler winterization
At its core, sprinkler winterization is simple:
Get the water out of the sprinkler system before it can freeze inside the pipes and parts.
That is all. Everything else is about doing that safely and completely.
For a typical Colorado Springs yard, winterization usually means:
– Shutting off the water supply to the system
– Draining or blowing out the lines
– Protecting valves, the backflow preventer, and exposed pipes
– Shutting down the controller and sensors for winter
You can think of it like putting away your summer kitchen gear. You do not leave cast iron out in the rain. You clean it, dry it, and store it. Same idea, just with water lines.
When should you winterize sprinklers in Colorado Springs?
Timing matters more than people think. Too early and you might drag hoses for late warm days. Too late and you risk a freeze.
For Colorado Springs, a practical guideline is:
- Typical window: Late September through late October
- Absolute safe side: Before nighttime lows start living around the low 20s
Here is the way I think about it:
– Watch the 10 day forecast
– Once you see several nights heading toward the low 20s, schedule your winterization
– Do not get fooled by warm afternoons
The ground holds some heat, so one quick frost might not hurt buried lines. The danger is when you get repeated cold nights, or one sharp drop, and you still have water in the system.
If you grow cool season plants like kale or chard, you might feel tempted to push it. That can be risky. You can still water late season plants with hoses or watering cans. Those are easier to empty and store.
Step by step winterization for home cooks who care about their yard
I will walk through a basic process. If at any point it feels too technical, it might be better to hire someone. A mistake can cost more than a service visit.
1. Turn off the sprinkler water supply
Your sprinkler system almost always has a dedicated shutoff valve. It might be:
– In the basement near the main water line
– In a crawl space
– In a box outside near where the system connects
Turn that valve to stop water going to the sprinklers. This part is simple, but people do forget it. If you skip this, air can push water back into the house lines or keep refilling parts of the system.
Make sure you shut off the sprinkler supply, not the whole house. You still want water for your kitchen, after all.
After you shut off the supply, you can open a sprinkler valve manually for a minute to confirm no new water flows.
2. Deal with the backflow preventer
The backflow preventer keeps lawn water from getting pulled back into your drinking water. It is often above ground, which makes it more exposed to cold.
Common steps:
1. Locate the backflow unit, usually a brass assembly with a couple of valves.
2. Turn the test cocks and valve handles to about 45 degrees so they are half open.
3. Let trapped water drain out.
Water that sits in this part can freeze and crack the body, which is not cheap. People sometimes wrap this with insulation after it is drained for extra protection.
3. Choose a drain method: manual drain, auto drain, or air blowout
This part gets more technical, and I think it is where most people either do it right or cause problems.
There are three main approaches:
| Method | Good for | Risks or limits |
|---|---|---|
| Manual drain | Gravity friendly yards with low lying drain valves | Can leave water trapped in high points in the lines |
| Automatic drain valves | Systems built with auto drains at low points | Valves can fail or clog, so they are not always reliable alone |
| Air blowout | Most Colorado Springs systems, especially larger yards | Incorrect air pressure can damage heads or valves |
I will talk mainly about air blowout because that is what many systems here need.
4. Basics of sprinkler air blowout
Air blowout means you use a compressor to push air through the lines so water comes out of the heads. It sounds simple. In practice, there are things that can go wrong.
A balanced, cautious approach looks like this:
1. Use a proper air compressor
Small hobby units often cannot keep up. For a typical home system, a unit in the 5 to 10 cubic feet per minute range at 50 to 80 psi is more realistic. Larger systems may need more. If you have no idea what that means, you are not alone. This is one reason many people call a service.
2. Connect to the blowout port
Most systems have a special fitting near the backflow or main line that is meant for this. Do not connect through the backflow in a weird way. That can damage it.
3. Work one zone at a time
– Set the controller for manual run of a single zone, or use the zone valves directly.
– Turn on that zone.
– Start the compressor.
– Let air push water out of the heads until you mostly see mist, not solid water.
– Stop. Give it a short rest, then repeat if needed.
4. Keep air pressure modest
Staying around 50 to 60 psi is safer for many residential systems. Some can handle more, but guessing high is not smart. Too much pressure can break heads or fittings.
If you feel tempted to crank the pressure to speed it up, that is usually a bad idea. It is like cranking the heat in the oven far above the recipe because you want dinner faster. There is a point where you just ruin things.
5. Check each zone around your edible areas
As a food lover, you probably care most about areas near:
– Raised vegetable beds
– Herb borders
– Fruit trees or berry shrubs
– Patio dining space
Pay attention to those zones as you blow them out. Watch the heads near your beds. You want to see them spit and sputter, then mostly blow air.
If you have drip lines for raised beds, you need extra care. Thin drip tubing can be more delicate. Some setups are not meant to be blown out with high pressure at all. They might need manual draining or lower pressure.
If your drip lines run on the same valve as spray heads, you may have a mixed zone that is tricky. This is another area where a local service can be worth the cost.
6. Shut down the controller
Once all zones are cleared:
– Set the controller to “off” or “rain mode”
– Keep the schedule in place, so you do not have to reprogram in spring
– If it has backup batteries, check or change them
You do not have to unplug the controller. You just do not want it trying to run zones when the water is off.
For people who are into food, I think of this like labeling containers in the freezer. Spring you will be glad that you do not have to rebuild everything from scratch.
7. Protect exposed parts for winter
Last step is physical protection for parts that sit above ground.
– Wrap backflow preventers and exposed pipes with insulation covers or foam
– Make sure nothing sits where heavy snow or ice can crush it
– Tidy around valve boxes so you can find them in spring
Nothing fancy here. Just basic care.
Linking winterization to your cooking and garden plans
It might feel like I am stretching to connect all this to food, but there is a real link.
Your yard is part of your cooking life if you:
– Grow herbs like basil, thyme, or rosemary
– Plant tomatoes, peppers, or greens
– Keep a small fruit area
– Host barbecues, brunches, or evening drinks outside
Those all rely on a comfortable, working outdoor space.
If your sprinklers fail, you might face:
– Dead patches where you planned a seating area
– Half watered raised beds with stunted plants
– Muddy spots near paths, which is not ideal for guests
– Irrigation panic instead of menu planning in April
I have had one spring where a single cracked line delayed planting by almost a month. That year, my tomatoes never quite caught up. It was a small thing, but every time I walked outside, I felt a little annoyed with past me for skipping good winter prep.
Common mistakes Colorado Springs homeowners make
Here are some of the things I see or hear about a lot.
Waiting for the “last” warm day
People say, “I will winterize next week, I want to run the sprinklers one more time.” Then a cold front arrives early.
It is fine to switch to hoses or watering cans for late season watering, especially around herbs and beds. Your sprinkler system does not need to handle every last warm day.
Using too much air pressure
There is a belief that more air means better clearing. It does not work that way.
Too much pressure can:
– Damage heads
– Stress fittings
– Harm valves
Better approach: moderate pressure for a bit longer. Like cooking something low and slow instead of burning the outside.
Skipping the backflow step
The backflow preventer is exposed and expensive to replace. Ignoring it can undo all the effort you put into blowing out lines.
I know people who carefully blew out zones, then forgot the backflow. One hard freeze, and that brass body split. They then spent spring money on a replacement rather than new raised bed soil or a new grill.
Assuming automatic drains handle everything
Some systems have small automatic drain valves at low points. They help, but they cannot protect every rise or high point. Over time, those valves can clog with mineral deposits or soil.
If you rely on them as your only method, you take a gamble. It might work for several years. Then one year it fails quietly, and you discover the problem too late.
Winter sprinkler care for people who grow food
Your irrigation system is a tool that supports your cooking. If you grow any food at home, you can think about water lines in a way that fits how you plan meals.
Plan zones around your edible garden
When your system is working, it should reflect your real use:
– A zone for lawn where guests gather
– A zone for main garden beds
– A zone for fruit trees or shrubs
– A zone for side or front beds
If you ever redo your system, you might want to separate zones so your edible beds get water patterns that match their needs. For example:
| Area | Preferred watering style | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Lawn near patio | Spray or rotary heads | Even coverage, soft surface for guests |
| Vegetable raised beds | Drip lines or soaker hoses | Water at soil level, less splash on leaves |
| Herb borders | Low flow sprayers or drip | Targeted watering, avoids walkways |
| Fruit trees | Deep watering emitters | Encourages deeper roots, steadier growth |
Winterization becomes easier when zones are clear, because you know exactly which lines feed your food growing areas.
Use winter as planning season
Once your sprinklers are safe for winter, you have a few months of quiet. That time is perfect for:
– Sketching next year’s garden plan
– Deciding which herbs to plant closer to the kitchen door
– Thinking about whether your current sprinkler layout fits your cooking habits
You might ask:
– Do I walk too far to pick herbs while cooking?
– Do certain beds dry out faster than others?
– Did guests cluster in one part of the yard more than I expected?
Winter is when you can answer those questions without rushing. Make notes for spring. It is easy to forget details when planting season hits.
Signs your sprinklers had winter damage
Even if you do everything right, it helps to know what to watch for when you first turn the system back on in spring.
Look for:
- Water bubbling up from the ground when a zone runs
- Unusually low pressure in one zone compared to others
- Heads that never pop up
- Water flowing from the backflow preventer or nearby pipes
If you see any of those, shut that zone off and investigate, or call someone. It might feel frustrating to delay planting, but dealing with a leak early is better than eroding soil around your beds or washing away mulch.
Water problems rarely fix themselves. If something looks or sounds wrong, trust that small nudge in your mind.
How this ties back to restaurants and local food
If you enjoy eating out, you probably notice patios, outdoor seating, and small garden touches. Many Colorado Springs restaurants grow at least a few herbs or edible flowers. They also rely on irrigation, though on a different scale.
Your home system has a similar role. It supports:
– Patio dinners with friends
– Tasting new recipes with garden ingredients
– Lazy Sunday breakfasts outside
Some people like to copy restaurant ideas in their own yards:
– A line of potted herbs near the grill
– A small salad bed near the back door
– String lights above a dining area
Water is part of that picture. If your sprinklers fail, you might still cook, but the space will feel weaker.
Quick checklist for busy home cooks
If you do not want to become an irrigation hobbyist, you can still keep things simple. Here is a short checklist you can save.
Before first hard freeze
- Turn off sprinkler water supply
- Drain and protect the backflow preventer
- Blow out or drain each zone until no more water flows
- Shut controller to off or rain mode
- Wrap exposed pipes or assemblies
Early spring
- Inspect visible pipes and backflow for cracks
- Turn water on slowly and watch for leaks
- Test each zone while you walk the yard
- Adjust heads around beds and patio, so they match your current layout
If any step feels confusing, it is not a failure to ask for help. It is the same as asking a chef friend to show you how to break down a chicken the first time. Once you see it done, it feels less mysterious.
Common questions food lovers ask about sprinkler winterization
Q: Can I skip winterization if I only care about a small herb bed?
A: You can skip it, but the system does not care what you value most. If you have a full yard sprinkler setup, it still holds water. A freeze can damage the whole system, even if you personally care only about your herbs near the door. It is often cheaper to winterize than to repair frozen lines in spring.
Q: If I grow a lot of food, should I use sprinklers or drip for my garden?
A: For most edible beds, drip or soaker style watering works better than standard spray heads. It keeps water near the roots and keeps leaves drier, which can reduce disease. Sprinklers are great for lawns and some border areas. You can mix both, but they should be on separate zones if possible, because they have different timing needs and slightly different winter care.
Q: Is sprinkler winterization something I can learn myself, or should I always hire someone?
A: Some people learn it and do fine, especially on smaller, simpler systems. If you are handy and patient, and you invest time to understand your layout, it can be a normal yearly task. But if you are unsure about air pressure, cannot find the right valves, or have drip zones tied into spray zones, it might be safer and cheaper long term to hire a pro. Think about how you choose between cooking at home and going out. Sometimes you cook. Sometimes you pay for skill and time. Both are valid, just for different situations.
